This blog has started at a very strange time. The world is fixated with COVID, and the media cannot talk about anything else. All usual conversation topics have ground to a halt, and been crushed under the weight of the pandemic. Many people are asking what it is like in Jakarta right now, fearful that it must be chaotic or draconian enforcement of random measures, but I have to report that it is not either of those things at all. Generally speaking, it does not seem to be in Indonesians nature to panic or overreact. And so far (long may it last) things are very calm and relaxed.
There are some enforced measures: all restaurants are closed for dine-in, and non-essential shops closed. It was quite surreal last week when I went to our nearest high-end shopping centre, Pacific Place, to find all the stores shuttered, lights off, and an eerie quiet pervading. It had an end-of-days feel that was not peaceful, nor was it a triumph of common sense over endless luxury fashion stores. The escalators were still, and the few people walking around were quiet, almost reverent, as if trespassing in a sacred space, which it certainly seemed with the domed roof of the atrium streaming in filtered sunlight. I have heard the comparison before of shopping centres as the modern cathedrals, but the two spaces had never seemed to have the same atmosphere until now.
Only the basement floor with the supermarket, liquor store and pharmacies was lively, with people out and about getting daily essentials. A reassuring “business as usual” feeling, and a typical warm greeting and big smile from everyone. Not to say that anyone is complacent: almost everyone is wearing a mask, there is hand sanitizer at every checkout and everyone is keeping distance.
In Jakarta there has not been the crazy levels of panic buying, or empty supermarket shelves seen in other places. The supermarkets are doing a brisk trade, and many Indonesians and expats are rediscovering (or even just discovering) home cooking, in a culture where eating out is both very common and very cheap. Everything which can usually be bought locally is still in stock, except some imported items such as French cheese which seems to be a bit more scarce.
Some of the embassies have been doing their best to create panic. There are frequent messages posted urging people to return home, I suspect as a general precaution, and aimed at the few intrepid travellers and holiday makers who are still hanging out in Bali, Lombok and other more remote spots. We were due to go to Bunaken National Park, at Easter, a marine reserve in Sulawesi with excellent diving. Unfortunately the park is closed to visitors for the foreseeable, and domestic travel is discouraged, but I am still looking forward to getting out there as soon as practicably possible.
Even though I had to cancel my holiday, I can still run. Usually on a Sunday Jakarta has Car Free Day. The main drag, Sudirman, is closed to traffic from 6am to 11am and Jakartan’s flock to the temporarily created public space to walk, run, cycle and skate. It is fantastic to see so many outdoors exercising, and the whole thing has a street party atmosphere. This few weeks, alas, there are no road closures, although the traffic is mercifully much reduced. But recent developments in the Senayan district mean the footpaths and footbridges (yes they do both exist!) still provide a decent running route. There were a fair few people out, with suitably appropriate distancing of course. It was great to see that people are still prioritising keeping fit and healthy when there is so much incentive to be a couch potato!
One sad thing to see was the number of Ojeks and taxi’s hanging around with no business. Of Jakarta’s 30million people, many live day to day earning less than AUD250 a month (£125). One common source of income for these people is as Ojek riders. Ojek is the traditional name of a motorcycle taxi, an industry which has been transformed by smartphones, with orders now made and paid for through GoJek, one of Indonesia’s unicorn tech companies, or Grab its Singaporean equivalent. As well as taxi services, these riders deliver take-away food and parcels, and so as restaurants are now closed I have been making full use of their services and the tips they get from takeaway delivery will help make sure their families can eat.
Which brings me to one thing I have been scouring the supermarkets for recently – hot cross buns. Not a very traditional Indonesian food I will grant you, but you never know. I had just given up, and was trying convince myself it is better for my waistline without, when the Easter bunny of inspiration called. Beau (#beaujkt), is the best bakery in Jakarta by a mile, and is in fact making them to order. Through the miracle of modern technology: a quick whatapp message to the bakery, online bank transfer of funds, and speedy delivery through GoJek, and voila! I have some yummy hot cross buns. Who says lockdown is a hardship!
Happy Easter everyone.
Letter from Jakarta. 